Replies: 5 comments 5 replies
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hello, thanks for little tutorial, I'm adding a template: {"NAME":"S60","GPIO":[1,1,1,1,224,544,1,3104,1,32,1,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,1,1,1,1],"FLAG":0,"BASE":1} few details: |
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Hi, is there any chance you could make a video of how you disassembled it?, thanks. |
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thx this photo help me |
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Good work! I'd suggest creating a device template in https://templates.blakadder.com/ where you can also post about the difficulties of how to flash the device. |
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i have problem set plug to boot |
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Hi,
Purchased recently the sonoff S60 , they are esp32C3 based sockets with 4000w switching power advertised, and power monitoring, based on the CSE7759B chipset.
the socket is not easy to dismantle, it requires to have a nice soldering iron with a bg tip since you ll have to unsolder the earth "bar while you entered inside the socket.
the main entrance is as for the gosund/nous sockets , inside the female earth pin at the back of the socket.
once the small torx scew is removed, you ll have to pull the grey cover, but its a bit glued, so you have to pry with cisors or another cuting tool all around the limit of the greycover and the body of the socket, the gluing is not so strong, you ll hear some few gracks while applying force with ce cisors in the junction.
once inside, you have to unsolder the earth bar, you ll notice some solder on it, heat and pull with pliers.
the grey plasting protecting the Lan N female pins, is clippend on th board, pull it with a thin plier or by the help of a screwdriver.
then, you ll have to unsolder the L and N bars that are coming from the back of the socket, unlike the gosund, where it was screwed, those ones are not easily removable, you have to heat the huge amount of tin on each pad, and melt also the invisible amount of tin that is located behind the board, then pull side by side with thin pliers, repeat the heating/pulling operation until the board gets out. , i pulled side by side with long pliers holding the copper of the L an N. once finished, the board will come off and youll e able to access to the pins of the microboard. the tx/RX are available through some pads on the mainboard and on the microboard. i prefered to solder my wires for flashing at the junction of the mainboard and the microboard. i flashed the board with tasmota webinstalled without issues.
i used the 5V pad to supply and test the board before reassembly, and used my serial to usb converter to supply the board while flashing with 5V levels, even if not considered safe, it worked. if you want to take it the safe way, consider powering via the 3.3V pad on the microboard.
here is the identification of the pins :
as per my knowledge this is to date the only teardown/flash of this model, more infos are welcome
![Uploading 20240423_003809.jpg
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