Arpehem-s-proton-pack-code

This is the code to use if you realyzed you bought a common cathode bargraph or only have access to this model. This code is designed to be used with 2 Arduino nanos or your favorite boards that have at least as many i/o ports and handles Arduino in order to minimyze the amount of wires running from the wand to the pack and has a unique smoke purge seuqence and design as well as all the bargraph animations.

These files and instructions are compatible with the Q-Pack.

Check out this link to see it in action: https://youtu.be/VGt3vFmbnvs

Features:

• Common cathode bargraph full animations
• aRGB 4x5mm aRGB wand tip LED lights
• Functional top and front wand knobs
• Music mode and volume control on the wand
• Bargraph volume display
• Full pack aRGB controled
• New N-filter realistic smoke purge system
• DYI smoker build
• Compatible with pre-built smoker
• Uses DFplayer mini
• Customisable sound amplification
• Aviation connector adaptor for the wand handle
• Bluetooth (depending on the amp)

Upcomming updates:

• Firing tail sound
• Game modes
• Top knob functionality

Which code to use?

• Use Neutrino wand code for the nano placed in the wand.
• Use Cyclotron_single_lights on your pack nano if you have single aRGB cyclotron lights.
• Use Cyclotron if you have 7 LED aRGB pucks for your cyclotron. Know that this code may be outdated, only single lights version is being worked on trough the end of this project as it was a design decision change but I wanted to include the option to use what you have/want and update the code yourself. (I was almost done I beleive and it is functional)

How it works: Main power switch will turn on the slo-blo light at all time to indicate that the pack powered. There is a sequence to turn the pack on that has to be respected. First step is to activate the particule accelerator controller (wand) on, flip on the wand light switch. That turns on the wand top light on indicating it's under tension. Second we flip the boot switch on which boots the pack and the rest of the wand. The pack goes trough it's boot animation sequence, the bargraph lights up by doing it's boot animation, then falls into it's loop at the same time as the pack starts and the 2 white hat lights on the wand start flashing. The third switch is to turn the smoke effect on and off as it is not allowed in all conventions.

Firing is fairly straight forward, just press the fire pin button. When firing, the 4 wand tip lights are controlled by a random function made to have white flashes, most of the time orange lights with hints of blues. The orange hat light also lights up when firing. At any time while firing, pressing the vent pin button will call a vent function that will pause the flashing light animation on the wand whyle the cyclotron is purging. If you installed a smoker, when you vent before entering the overhead sequence, there will be a breif lag (half a second) in between the command and the action to allow the smoker to build up a bit of smoke for a better effect. Shooting will make the cyclotron go faster untill it reaches the ovearheting sequence.

If you shoot long enough, you will enter the overheating sequence that will change the bargraph animation, sound the allarm, make the 3rd wand top light flash, flash all 4 cyclotron lights at the same time and alter LEDs on the Power cell. If you let go of the firing button or if you press the vent button in that 'mode', it will engage the vent sequence that will change the bargraph animation, light up the N-Filter, activate the purge fan propelling the smoke out of the N-filter and return to normal cycle loop afterwards.

If you keep shooting, you will enter the overheat sequence. The bargraph animation will change and the pack will force vent, doing all the thing normal venting would do but insttead of going back to the normal cycle sequence, it will force shutdown. This is by design. If this happens to you, you have to turn off both the boot and the wand pin switches and switch them back on in the propper order for it to restart. Only shutting down the pack switch on the wand will not allow to reboot, the user has to complete the shutdown sequence by turning everything off before turning it back on to exit the overheated mode.

Controlling the music and the volume is done with the front knob which is attached to the rotary encoder. Pressing it once will put it in volume mode which will display it's value on the bargraph. Raisin the volume will raise the bargraph value and vice versa. Clicking it once more will bring it back to normal mode. Double clicking the rotary encoder will start the music and holding it down will skipp to the next song. Clicking it twice again will bring it back in normal pack mode.

Required components:

• Audio option 1 (speakers and sub watts have to be a bit more than the chosen amp output to avoid any problems):
• • 1 x Subwoofer the size that fits your motherboard speaker hole.
• • 2 x 3" car speaker
• • 1 x amp with 2 speaker channels and 1 sub channel
• Audio option 2 (speaker wattage has to be a bit more than the chosen amp output to avoid any problems):
• • 1 x Speaker that fits your motherboard speaker hole.
• • 1 x amp 1 channel (mono)
• DIY Smoker:
• • 1 x 510 to EGO adapter (optional but way easier to use)
• • 1 x 12a 100W buck converter
• • 3 X 20a relay
• • 1 x 0.8 omh Vape tank and coil
• • 1 x 50mm 230mah blower fan
• • 3d printer
• • 3" of 1/4" plastic tubing that can be found in hardware stores
• • 3/16" A/C air conditioner filter sheet

Wand and pack:

• 1 x 2 way rotary switch (https://amzn.to/40L4XQX)
• 4 x 41x33mm Aluminum LED Flashlight Reflector Condenser Cup Cap
• 4 x 8mm aRGB LED (5mm could fit too)
• 1 x 6000 Mah battery pack (Recommend Talentcell)
• 3 x 20a relay
• 1 x 5V 40mm fan
• 2 x 3a buck converter
• 1 x 360 Degree Rotary Encoder Module
• 2 x Arduino nano (Or other boards with as many I/O ports that handles Arduino)
• 1 x Adafruit 16x8 LED Matrix Driver Backpack - HT16K33 Breakout
• 1 x Common cathode 28 segment LED bargraph
• 2 x Adafruit NeoPixel Stick for Arduino- 8 x WS2812
• 4 x 5mm aRGB LED
• 2 x 7mm Momentary (OFF-ON) Push Button Micro Switch
• 3 x 2 Position 3 Pins Mini Toggle Switch
• 1 x SS-10-23NP-L-E Rotary switch (https://bit.ly/3HUpoSU)
• 3 x 5mm white LED
• 1 x 3mm red LED
• 1 x 5mm yellow LED
• 1 x 5V white LED strip (about a foot)
• 10 x 1k omh resistances
• 2 x NPN transistor (2N2222)
• 1 x 4-PIN aviation connector (Optional)
• 1 x DF player mini

Here is a shopping list of the parts I found on Amazon: https://www.amazon.ca/hz/wishlist/ls/2MNKQJ50DXHUB?ref_=wl_fv_le

Pinout:

Wand:

• D2 Boot pin (wand switch 2)
• D3 Light switch (wand switch 1)
• D4 Smoke switch (wand switch 3)
• D5 Fire pin (fire button)
• D6 Vent pin (vent button)
• D7 Btn pin (Rotary encoder btn pin)
• D8 DT (Rotary encoder data pin)
• D9 CLK (Rotary encoder clock pin)
• D10 Cannon LED aRGB (Wand tip LED)
• D11 Fire light (wand tip orange light)
• D12
• D13 Rotary switch 1 (top knob rotary switch output 1)
• A0 Slo-blo LED (wand red light)
• A1 Wand white flashing hat light 1 (Wand top light large)
• A2 Wand white neon hat light (Wand top light small)
• A3 Wand white flashing hat light 2 (Wand top light large)
• A4 HT16K33 matrix SDA
• A5 HT16K33 matrix SCL
• A6 Rotary switch 2 (top knob rotary switch output 2)
• A7 Rotary switch 3 (top knob rotary switch output 3)

Pack:

• D2 Cyclotron aRGB data
• D3 Powercell aRGB data
• D4 Purge pin (Purge relay)
• D5 Smoke pin (smoke relay)
• D10 DFplayer mini RX
• D11 DFplayer mini TX

Instructions: I will skipp trough: 'connect positive to the positive contact and negative to the negative contact. Remember that every negative needs to go to the main power switch before the power supply. Do not power devices trough the arduino 5V outputs, use buck converters to modulate the 12V signal to a 5V one. Audio needs to be on it's own buck converter to avoid interference BUT the amp, power that one 12V directly from the power source.

• Wand connector: Print the plug file. This is a replacement end cap for the wand handle allowing you to use a 4 pin aviation connector to easily disconnect the want from the pack.
• Prepping the inputs: Every button or switch input need to go to the i/o ports it's assigned to which needs to have a 1k omh resistance running to the ground each. This is to limit interference and ghost inputs. (not a pun) An easy way to do this is to use dupont connectors in which you brace the input wire with the 1k omh resistor. Once everything connected, weld all resistances together on a ground.
• Power and communication: Start by running power from the main power switch (2 way rotary switch) connected to a buck converter that lowers the 12V to 5V to the 2 arduinos separately. Do not use 5V directly from the battery pack, it causes issues. Connect the first arduino's RX to the second one's TX and the first one's TX to the second one's RX. Basically, connect them backwards to one another. Now the wand 'speaks' to the pack.
• Wand tip: Glue 4x5mm aRGB LEDs next to one another so that it fits where you want it to go in the barrel. Daisy chain them and connect the first one's data input to wand D10. (Remember, to connect individual aRGB LEDs, you need to connect i'ts data out to the next one's data in)
• Power cell: Sawder the output contacts of the first bar onto the input contacts of the second one to make a 16 bit led bar. Connect the first bar data input to pack D3.
• Cyclotron: Glue in the 8mm led INSIDE the flashlight reflector or trough them if you got 5mm aRGB LEDs instead. Connect the first one's data pin to pack D2.
• DIY Smoker: We're going to push air in the vape's air inlet instead of pulling it out. Use a dremel to marry the blower fan to the side of the vape tank. Use a tie-wrap to secure the blower fan onto the base of the vape tank alligned with the vape tank's air intake. Dril a hole in your 510 to EGO adapter's base and use it to sawder in a wire to ground. Sawder directly onto the midle contact for the positive contact. Screw in the vape tank adaptor and connect it to the high power buck converter. Connect the high power buck converter to a 20a relay. That relay is controlled by the smoke pin Arduino output. The white 5v LED strip is to be connected to it's own relay and so does the 40mm purge fan. Theire individual relays are activated by a third relay that is driven by the smoke purge pin.

You will need to print these files for the purge tank: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5848057

You'll need these pieces:

• 45_intake_2
• 90_angle
• Vent_cup
• 90_intake_2
• and a tip diffuser of your liking listed in the files.

You have an array of tips to choose, I prefer the 1 row 1 tip diffuser. Print the smoker files. Glue on the tip on the straight end of the 90_intake_2 piece. Glue the 45_intake_2 in the side hole of the vent_cup. Glue to 90_intake_2 to the end of the 45_intake_2 end in the vent_cup. Use 1/4" plastic tubing to connect the intake to the 90_angle and then to then output of the vape tank. The parts are jointed by 1/4" plastic tubing. Cut a piece of 3/16" air filter a bit larger than the 40mm fan. Place the air filter on the vaent cup round hole and crew the 40mm in with 4 M3 screws pushing trough the filter. This will create enough air resistance so that the smoke stays in the smoker but not enough to keep the fan from blowing air trough it. You're going to need to tweak the buck converter's voltage for your vape machine to produce a light but thick smoke that produces the wanted effect. You should now have a cup fitting to be glued inside the proton pack, alligned with the N-filter that has a fin on it's back and a tube driving the smoke from the smoker output to about halfway into the N-filter. Glue down the assembly only after installing N-filter meshes and lights. You will not be able to remove the N-filter purge container. If the purge fan is not spinning fast enough, change it's relay power supply to be on a different buck converter. It means that the N-filter lights are drawing too much power so you need a different power moduluator (buck in our instance).

• Bought smoker: Follow the smoker's instructions on how to power it but, do it trough the smoker relay so that it's activated by our code. There is no special need for the smoker in order for the purge function to work properlly other than to spew out smoke when powered.If the purge fan is not spinning fast enough, change it's relay power supply to be on a different buck converter. It means that the N-filter lights are drawing too much power so you need a different power moduluator (buck in our instance).
• Connecting a relay to arduino: In order for the arduino to be able to drive a relay, we're going to need to use transistors attached to resistances. Sawder a 1k resistance to the middle prone of a PNP 2N2222 transistor. Sawder one of the 2 side ones to the negative of the power supply and the other end to the relay. Whatever is driven by the relay needs to be connected to the ground trough the relay and directly to the negative side of the power supply/main power switch. Connect the resistance that is sawdered onto the middle prone of the transistr to the Arduino board. Do this for the smoker pin and the purge pin relays. A relay has 2 emmiter prones, one normally opened, one normally closed, you want your signal to run trough the normally opened one. Normally opened mean that it does not normally convey signal, the circuit is opened (as in there's a break in the circuit) it needs an interraction to close the circuit and therefore transmit the signal/voltage.
• Audio: Connect the speaker(s) to the amp. Power the amp straight from the powercell. Don't use power converters as it will induce interference in the audio signal. Connect the amp's ground the main power switch (or power if you decided to control power by the positive). Connect the DFplayer mini outputs to the amp's input. Unpack the MP3.rar in a folder called MP3 on a SD card and insert it in de DFplayer mini.
• Front volume/music knob: Desawder the rotary encoder from it's board without damaging either parts. Use 1" wires sawdered to each leg of the rotary encoder and sawder those onto their respective places on the removed board. There you have it: a rotary encoder that fits in the front knob position. Carefull not to drill the hole it goes into too close to the Clippard valve as the front knob will need to have clearance to be pushed and turned. In order to glue the front knob on the rotary encoder correctly, I recommend using a gauge to space it from the main wand box when installing to leave clearance for a click and if you are using an alluminum knob, I used a long set screw from the inside of it to create an inner spacer.
• Top knob: Glue a M3 nut on the top the 3 position rotary switch selector. Run a long M3 screw in the tob knob and glue them together. Install top knob in it's place and screw in the nut on the top of the rotary switch to it. Now that the top knob is attached to the rotary switch, make sure the know is in the correct place and glue the 3 position switch to the inside of the wand box. You can unscrew and screw it back (for painting) if you are carefull. Make sure to not apply too much force to the switch when screwing the top knob in and out as it will easily break (I recommend ordering 5 to have spares).
• Main power switch (optional): Dril a hole where the crank generator crank goes. Use the 2 way oven style switch and glue it inside the pack trough the hole so that you can fit/glue the crank on it's stub. Use this switch between every ground and the power source ground.